Small birds with Polenta (Lombardy)

In some Italian provinces, many of the choicest dishes are prepared with small birds. This taste for fieldfare has existed since the days of the Romans, and larks and thrushes in particular are considered to have a very delicate flavor. We are apt to  be more squeamish about small birds, especially song birds.

The birds are plucked but not drawn and their heads are left on. They are then threaded on to long skewers interspersed with thin slices of pork and bacon and sage leaves and spit roasted quickly with frequent basting. The small birds are served very hot, resting on a dish of polenta.